Orkney

 

Located off the north eastern coast of Scotland , the Orkney Islands are home to a collection of independent, rural fishing communities, scores of protected wildlife and some of the oldest historic artefacts in Europe.

The Orcadian Archipelago consists of 70 islands of which 16 are inhabited. The Mainland is the largest and at the centre is the Orcadian capital Kirkwall, which has a population of 6,000 people. Kirkwall and the picturesque Stromness are lively ports and the hub of the outlying islands.

With the exception of the rugged and mountainous Hoy, these islands consist of gentle hills and lush fertile lands with meadows of brilliantly coloured wild flowers in the spring. Many of the islands, particularly parts of West mainland are outlined by stunning coastlines, ringing with the sound of crashing waves and nesting seabirds. While aquamarine bays and golden beaches can be found on the aptly named island of Sanday.

Situated along ancient North Atlantic sea routes, the Orkney Islands are rich in history and well preserved ancient sites can be seen throughout the islands. These include Neolithic dwellings and World Heritage sites at Skara Brae (predating the Egyptian Pyramids) the ancient tomb of Maes Howe and the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar built before Stonehenge .

But it is the Vikings that have left the biggest mark on the islands. Orkney was a Norse earldom for 300 years, long before the Scottish took over and many of Orkney’s place names are derived from Old Norse. The 12th Century St Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall is testament to the Viking settlement and is an outstanding example of medieval architecture.

Orkney also played a role in more modern history. In the 18th and 19th centuries the Hudson Bay Company recruited hundreds of Orcadians overseas and many Canadians and Americans can trace their ancestry back here. During the world wars, Scapa Flow was the Royal Navy’s main base and the Orkneys were home to Italian Prisoners of war who built an impressive Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm.

As well as the many historic sites, Orkney can be sampled for its abundant wildlife, relaxed settings and calm pace of life. The Orcadians are friendly, vibrant and sociable and in the evenings, the pubs and hotels buzz with the authentic sounds of the islanders. This is at its best around the St Magnus festival in June. Dining is another way to quite literally gain a taste of Orcadian life. From traditional oatcakes, or prime Orkney beef, to fresh scallops, lobster, salmon and trout, Orkney’s restaurants serve up fine local produce. And Orkney’s Highland Park distillery has a very good reputation for fine single malts.

In spring and summer the climate is at its best. The high latitude of Orkney means that at the summer solstice the sun rises around 4am and sets at 10.30pm but remains just below the horizon. This ‘simmer dim’ as the locals say, means that there is no true darkness and one offshoot of this is the traditional custom of playing golf on midsummer’s day – at midnight!